Sunday, March 16, 2008

HAPPY BIRTHDAY MICHAEL

I'M SO GLAD YOU WERE BORN. I hope it was a great one for ya. We went surfing in your honor. It was crazy. The wave on the north shore of Oahu that I caught... the wave I caught was probly 5 or 6 feet high. This is much bigger than what I'm used to, and I didn't know I was supposed to turn my board more diagonally and ride across it. So I round down it... the wave carried me up, I looked down five feet and thought "I'm gonna die." But instead my board rushed through the air and landed smoothly on the water below as the wave kept pushing me toward the shore. Then I realized that I should probably stand up, so I got about to me knees and rode it for a bit longer. It was awesome! I smiled big the whole way down and really felt like I was living. So Mike, I dedicate that surf to you, since you know how to jump up and take the big waves and smile big when you get to do something really exciting. We love you!

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